The water was seventy degrees, the prevailing wind there straight off shore. A perfect wave and perfect conditions.... I couldn't help but think of the hundreds of years these waves must have been breaking here. But until this day, no one had ever ridden one. Think of the thousands of waves that went to waste, and the waves that are going to waste right now....Out of the whole day of surfing we didn't see one wave section or break in front of itself, each wave was perfect.